PROBLEM SOLVING—A CHECK LIST
Gary Patterson
Dog training, by definition, is problem solving. No dog is the same. Some trainers have a clearer idea about training than others. These variables often come together when the trainer is starting to finish a dog's training and finds that issues start to pop up. At this point, the trainer must stop and analyze what is going on. This process of analysis requires a mental check list which, if followed, should yield a fairly straightforward answer.
The first question is: “Does the dog even have a problem?” By this I mean that a problem in training means that a dog shows some kind of behavior that is totally out of character from what it has done before reliably. As an example, a dog may have reliably downed quickly, on command, scores of times before, but suddenly starts to down slowly, crookedly or doesn't down at all. In this example, there is clearly a training problem.
But what about the situation where the dog has never properly performed reliably and the trainer decides he is now going to make it right. This isn't a problem; rather, it is an example of incomplete training. The trainer is trying to correct work that was never properly taught to the dog during the learning phase, or the transition from teaching to motivational training wasn't done properly.
If the teaching phase was incomplete, the trainer must stop all work on this exercise and return to teaching what the trainer really wants. All compulsion (i.e., corrections) must stop as they are the worst answer, creating only confusion and stress when, to the dog, the training changes. Instead, the trainer must patiently teach what was missed before, bringing back bribery (the ball or food), body language, help with the lead and multiple commands and encouragement. The atmosphere must be high spirited and full of aids designed to bring correct structure to the work.
If the work during the teaching phase was good, but doesn't seem to be carrying over into the finished exercise, the trainer is probably guilty of not properly making the transition from the teaching phase to motivational work. Remember, motivation training is designed to create reliability in what the dog already understands from teaching. But, the problem is that the transition doesn't occur in one or two training sessions. Instead, it's a longer process of removing all the aids that were used to teach, so the trainer gets a good and reliable response with just a command. A couple of examples might help.
Suppose I have established a beautiful heeling picture during the teaching phase, but I had to use a ball or food along with fairly short heeling patterns to get that result. If I were to stop using all the aids in one or two sessions, and demand the dog heel the same way as it did earlier, the result would be the dog becoming confused, unfocused and slipping in energy. In order to make a good transition, the trainer must slowly remove all these aids from the earlier work. The ball might be held for a few paces, but then put in a pocket for several more paces, then pulled out again to continue heeling. If the dog should stop heeling properly when the ball is hidden, it receives a verbal or physical correction. Over time, it learns that it will ultimately get the reward if it continues properly or a correction if it doesn't.
In tracking, the dog may have had to rely on bait as bribery to create the proper tracking progressions, but, over time, the trainer uses less bait and tends to place it in more strategic locations, such as after a turn or in the middle of a long leg. If it starts to falter because there is less bait, the trainer will correct the dog.
So the transition can be the problem is the handler continues to use too much help during the motivational phase or goes, cold turkey, from teaching to trying to finish the exercise in one session.
But, these are examples of incomplete training, not problems in training.
The first step in problem solving is analyzing the problem. Is it an isolated event or has it happened more than once as an emerging problem? If only once, maybe it isn't a problem; but, if it happens repeatedly, a problem definitely exists.
The next step is analyzing other training. If the trainer is teaching something else, is the dog confusing this other work with what it already knows? As one example, teaching the stand and the down often seem confusing to a dog. If you have the situation, it is best to stop the other work until the problem is solved. Another side of this issue concerns compulsion in other work. If strong corrections are required in other training besides the problem area, the stress of this other work may be carrying over into the problem area. Stress can create lack of focus and loss of attitude which carries over into other work. Again, the answer rests in not doing the training where the problem exists until the other training returns to something more normal.
One of the first things I look at when a problem arises is lack of focus by the dog. All working dog training brings the dog to the edge of its abilities. If it misunderstands the command because it isn't paying attention, the problem is instantaneous. When this occurs, I often stop working on the training issue and concentrate on making the dog pay close attention. Focus work can involve working around distractions and correcting the dog if it doesn't absolutely concentrate on the trainer. I also slow down the work so the dog has a chance to clearly understand the command and can respond accordingly.
One source of problems is the command structure of the trainer. During teaching, the dog received multiple commands as an aid to teaching an exercise. When a command is given, the dog has only a split second to translate that command into action. If the command isn't clear and consistent, the dog may become confused or misinterpret the command. The trainer must make sure that each sit, heel, retrieve or down command is clearly different from all other commands and is clearly communicated to the dog. I don't yell at the dog, but give a strong, authoritative command. I avoid using words that sound like other commands. As an example, the “sit” command has an initial “s” sound. Therefore, I want to avoid the sibilant hissing sound of sit with another command like “stand.” Instead, I will use the stand command, “and”. I might use a high pitched voice for sit and a lowed pitched one for down.
The next step is isolating the exercise from all other work. If a problem exists on the search, send away or retrieval, I will only work on that exercise during a training session or I will start the work with that exercise. As an example, if my dog isn't retrieving fast enough, I will often do it first or by itself to maintain the highest energy and freshness in the training. If you are having a problem with a slow sit or down, stop doing all other sit, down or stand work. This brings greater focus and understanding to the dog.
When a problem first starts, make sure the dog isn't having some physical problem. If the dog suddenly starts chewing a dumbbell, a bad tooth or gum sore may be the cause. If it starts sitting slowly, an impacted anal gland can be the culprit. This issue can even go so far as the basic structural soundness of the dog. A younger dog may be able to work properly when it is young, but because of structural issues that only arise as the dog matures, areas such as speed, proper heeling and athletic ability may deteriorate. This isn't a flaw in training, but if the trainer fails to recognize the issue, he may be working on a hopeless cause or, worse, injure the dog.
Even with all the above checked off, there will be those cases when compulsion is the only answer. First, remember that compulsion or negative reinforcement is only that which is needed to stop unwanted behavior. In tracking, it may be no more than a strong “no, track” command. In protection work, it may require strong physical corrections, even electric collar work. The rule is: don't overcorrect and don't undercorrect. The best approach is to, again, isolate the problem where only it is being worked on. Don't try to incorporate problem solving into pattern training. If, as an example, I have a slow sit, I heel only a few feet, and give a correction with the lead, touch stick or my hand on the dog' rear. If the dog sits more quickly, don't make the mistake of stopping there. Do two or three more sits with compulsion to reinforce the quicker sit. Then proof the dog with no correction. If it sits quickly, continue without corrections. Only when the dog starts to sit slowly again, does the compulsion come back in, but again with three or four more sits. This pattern of consistent reinforcement following by proofing will bring the dog around to the trainer's point of view. Keep in mind that in this more advanced work the dog needs to understand what the trainer expects and do it consistently. At this stage, a slow sit is as big a mistake as no sit at all. The dog must understand this.
Having said all of this, there are those situations where the trainer can only succeed by making a problem better, but not perfectly solving it. Few dogs are perfect. The character of working dogs and the demands we trainers put on them produce few perfect performances. There are those cases where all the hard work will only produce limited success. The trainer needs to understand this dilemma and often settle with the best he can get. Each dog has its own weaknesses. What the trainer can do is mitigate the effect of character or physical limitations so training can produce a stronger and more positive result than the dog would naturally give.
